Hola from Loreto, Baja California Sur! It’s my first day here and I already made friends and got a bike to use for my two-month stay. Before I tell those stories, I’m going to address some FAQ:
Where/What is Loreto?
Loreto is one of the oldest settlements on the Baja peninsula, located on the Sea of Cortez about a 7-hour drive north of Cabo San Lucas. It is a small, colonial town of about 15,000 people.
The Baja peninsula consist of two states, Baja California to the north (the one with Tijuana, Ensenada, etc.) and Baja California Sur, which makes up the southern half of the Baja peninsula (sur = south).
I am here:
Why did I choose Loreto?
I came to Baja California Sur (BCS) last year (2015) as part of a media trip, during which I swam with sharks in La Paz, glamped in the sand dunes of Magdalena Bay, and went blue whale watching in Loreto. I was only here in Loreto for two days, but this place struck me as one that I could see myself staying in for a while, if only I had the time.
Well, now I have the time, so here I am. Simple as that.
Do I know anyone in Loreto?
Nope. For the last year, I have been practicing listening to myself and making my decisions about destinations, work projects, or other, based on what I truly want, not based on who else might be involved. This is both incredibly rewarding and most challenging.
Where am I living?
I found a few apartments for rent online before I came. If you read anything about my apartment search in Argentina, you know it was a big headache, and I didn’t want to do that again. It turned out that only one of the apartments I found in Loreto was available, and it happened to be the one I wanted the most. It was the one I saw myself in when I imagined living in Loreto, and it was available for exactly the window of time that I needed it (Dec-Jan). I took this as a sign and didn’t even think twice; I simply said yes. I put a deposit down, site unseen, trusting that this was meant to be.
Now that I am here, it is even better than the pictures! I am one block from the Sea of Cortez and the malecón (boardwalk), and a couple blocks from the center.
Watch a video tour of my apartment.
Story Time: A Warm Baja Welcome and Some Seriously Good Hombres
Yesterday was stressful. My flight from San Luis Potosí (central Mexico) was delayed, making my connection in Mexico City only 30 minutes. There would be no more flights to my destination of La Paz that day, meaning if I missed it I’d be stuck in Mexico City for the night, and I would forfeit the bus ticket I already purchased from La Paz to Loreto. They also made me check my backpack, and I was convinced it would never make it through a 30-minute connection in Mexico City, even if I somehow did.
Against all odds, I made my connection, and so did my backpack! We reunited in Baja, only to find out that my ride that was supposed to pick me up from the airport in La Paz could not make it. I needed to get to the bus station to catch my 5-hour bus to Loreto.
Taxis were $17. This is ridiculously overpriced for the short drive to the bus station in the center of town, so I decided to ask someone about buses or colectivos. That’s how I met Saulo. I didn’t realize he was closing up his station at the Budget rental car counter when I approached him, but when I asked him about buses to the center and found out there weren’t any and that I would have to take a $17 taxi, he said he was heading that direction anyway and that he would take me. Kind people are the best!
To top it all off, the sky did this:
I arrived in Loreto at midnight and was picked up by the woman who manages my apartment. She drives a Toyota truck like mine, and it felt like home.
This morning I woke up to a cozy, clean, bright apartment… with no coffee. I walked the one block to the beach in search of nothing in particular, and coffee at the same time. The sun glistened on the gentle, lapping waves of the sea, and I forgot that anywhere else even existed for a moment as I stared at it.
Yes, this will do.
I went into the only open restaurant I could find on the sleepy malecón and ordered breakfast as two guys sat down at the table next to mine. That’s how I met Mike and Gustavo. Both have been here for decades and had plenty to share. I felt like they wanted to take me under their wings and help me in any way they could. They believe in what I’m doing.
They recommended stores, activities, even a doctor in case I needed one. They gave me their phone numbers and told me to call if I needed any help whatsoever. Before I knew it, they even offered me a bike to use for my stay. Magic.
That’s how I came to be the proud borrower of this baby:
As I left them at breakfast, Mike said to me, “Welcome to Loreto, may you enjoy it, may you have a great time, and may you laugh a lot.”
What a warm welcome indeed. It’s funny to think that just 24 hours ago, I was anxious about my decision to come here. I am reminded of how much can change in just one day.
I can’t wait to see what tomorrow brings.
