Click here to hike the W Circuit yourself – I now lead group trips there!
When this photo came across my Instagram feed nearly a year ago, I immediately reposted it and put “whatever this is” on my bucket list ASAP. “This” happened to be Torres del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia (and yes, I have permission to repost this photo from the lovely @sophtravels).
Fast forward to this summer. I was accepted to attend the Adventure Travel World Summit in Chile, put on by an organization I’ve been working with more and more this year, the Adventure Travel Trade Association. Along with attending the Summit, delegates were invited to participate in adventure tours all throughout Chile.
This was my chance.
I may or may not have been the very first person to sign up for a 7-day trek on the W Circuit of Torres del Paine National Park, organized by Fantástico Sur (a company that truly stands up to its name). It’s called the W Circuit/Trek because on a map, it creates a “W” (following the red dots).
This trek would literally be my first stop on an indefinite journey, after leaving my home in the US to travel the world.
I couldn’t imagine a better place on the planet than Patagonia to arrive in the state I was in: starving for adventure, yearning for freedom, and searching for an environment I could connect with both spiritually and physically. Torres del Paine was it.
After a long day (or two?) of flights from the Pacific Northwest of the US to the very depths of Chile, I met my trekking mates (and soon-to-be new best friends) in Punta Arenas. Our group of 10 represented 9 countries and included 2 of the most badass female guides in Chile. My kind of people. The bus ride from there to the “end” of the W took about 5 hours, during which, in the pitch black of the night, we spotted a couple of pumas roaming the landscape along the road.
I was definitely not at home anymore.
Day 1: Mirador Torres del Paine (18 KM)
Given that we arrived at 1am to Hotel Las Torres, we did not make a sunrise attempt to the Mirador, as is common. Instead, we had a leisurely breakfast, layered up in the clothes we would wear perpetually for the next 5 days, clothes ready for “four seasons in one day” (the apparent norm in Patagonia), and set off on our 18 KM out and back trek. The hike to Mirador Base Torres makes up the right side of the “W,” with the towers at the very tip.
This was a perfect day.
From morning to night, everything we did, every conversation I had getting to know my new friends, reveling in the vastness that is Patagonia, and also reveling in the release and connection I was already feeling from within, culminating in an experience and a view that had topped my bucket list…
And that wasn’t all. We were treated to hot drinks, beer, cakes, and the most delicious beef empanadas I’ve ever had at the refugio on the way back down. Who doesn’t LOVE a warm up with treats on a chilly hike?
Tip: Stop at Refugio Chileno on the way back down, and get the home made hot chocolate. At 3,000 pesos, it is worth it.
Dinner at Hotel Las Torres was the icing on the cake, as we sat around a fire and enjoyed being serenaded by a simple acoustic guitar and a voice that moved even those who didn’t understand his Spanish.
What. A. Day.
I began to wonder how the rest of the days would compare. And it’s funny, because looking back, Day 1 was “cute” compared to the days that followed. I just had no idea what I was in for.
Day 2: Hotel Las Torres to Refugio Los Cuernos (11 KM)
I grew up in the snow, but much to my ski-obsessed dad and brother’s disappointment, it turns out I am a fair-weather fan. I don’t enjoy snowstorms, and I would be flat out lying if I said that snow storms in Patagonia were any better, or more magical, or anything like that. They’re not, in fact, with the winds down there, they’re fierce.
About an hour into our hike on Day 2, we marched right into a snow storm that lasted a couple of hours. It was incredibly wet, and the strong winds actually made it a bit miserable (they don’t say four seasons in one day for nothing). [Insert huge shout out to Chris Doyle, who had two pairs of waterproof gloves and gave me a pair about halfway through the storm (although he didn’t appreciate my Dumb and Dumber reference).]
The many condors overhead and the turquoise Lago Nordenskjöld along which we were hiking were the redeeming distractions during the storm, until, miraculously, it cleared. To our surprise, we had been hiking underneath “Los Cuernos” which means “The Horns.”
In every direction, we were mesmerized.
Right:
Left:
Eventually I sat down next to a sunny brook to warm up and wait for the others to catch up (we stopped a LOT to take photos). I must have sat there for 20 minutes, soaking in my surroundings and letting the sun warm my face, intentionally melting away the sting of the storm before continuing on my way.
Words almost fail me when it comes to describing our “camp” for the night, where we arrived within an hour after my date with the sunny brook.
I have a special affinity for cozy cabins in the mountains, with wood stoves and thick blankets, because I grew up in one, so they feel like home. Our accommodations for Day 2 completely, absolutely, blew my mind.
Eight cabins, one for each of us, complete with cozy beds and cute smoke stacks from the roaring wood stoves, set beneath the majestic and lightly snow-capped Cuernos that rose dramatically overhead, and sloped down to the turquoise blue of the lake, that was of course surrounded by an expanse of mountains and volcanoes.
Can this be any more perfect?
Actually, it can. Insert wood-fired hot tub, exclusively for guests of the cabins, which meant that it was all for us, and we were all about it. There is simply NO. BETTER. WAY. to end a snowy, bone-chilling, physically exhausting day than a soak in this exact hot tub in this exact place. Add pisco sours and beer to that recipe: complete, raw bliss.
*Update January 2018 – the hot tub is no longer available. #sadface
Day 3: Los Cuernos to Refugio Paine Grande via French Valley (the middle of the “W”) (25 KM)
As much as I didn’t want to leave my precious cabin in this absolutely idyllic place, we set out early on Day 3, because we had a long day ahead of us. After the snow storm the day before, we put on extra layers, which we promptly tore off sweating about 45 minutes later.
Chris even jumped into the glacier water of the lake, where we stopped to skip rocks and enjoy the views. Patagonia had blessed us with yet another beautiful day.
French Valley makes up the middle stretch of the W, which means it’s an out and back (2 hours each way), and it’s also optional. It’s also not to be missed, in my opinion.
Tip: Leave your big packs at the Ranger Station at Italian Camp, taking just your day packs, and do this portion of the W as light as possible.
It is the most technical portion of the hike and can be very slippery and dangerous with mud, snowmelt, and ice. That didn’t stop us.
As soon as we turned north into the valley, Paine Grande Glacier greeted us with a substantial avalanche, cascading down the slope right before our eyes for about a minute (don’t worry, Mom, we were not in danger by any means).
When eight people stop in their tracks, speaking no words, but simply listening and watching Mother Nature do her thing, there is more than just an incredible sight to see. The magic was palpable, and in the silent, awe-inspired glances we exchanged amongst ourselves, I knew we all felt it. And we couldn’t wait to get closer.
Welcome to French Valley.
The avalanches continued, and so did we, higher and deeper into the embrace of what looked like a caldera of vertical spires. This is why I said Day 1 was “cute.” French Valley is like Las Torres times a hundred.
When we reached the Mirador, which was a giant rock in the middle of this valley, our guide Paula surprised us all with a gourmet snack of ginger tea, fruit, meat, cheese, and crackers that she had hauled all this way. I mean, really? Can this experience get any better? I keep saying that! The sweet and salty treats added a profound, yet basic element of gratitude and contentment to the entire experience of being so deep in nature’s beauty.
It was like being able to taste the view.
Thinking we would run out of daylight before we reached that night’s refugio, we booked it down, some of us literally running parts of it (now THAT, would be an amazing trail race). Because of our hustle, we made it with an hour of daylight to spare, cleaned up, and proceeded to enjoy none other than that day’s portion of pisco sours by a wood stove at Refugio Paine Grande.
I don’t think anyone made it past about 10pm that night, and for me, that was a stretch. I love hitting the pillow hard after a fulfilling day of physical activity, not to mention some of the best natural eye candy I’ve ever seen in my life.
Day 4: Refugio Paine Grande to Grey Glacier (11 KM)
As if we hadn’t seen enough jaw-dropping, mind-blowing beauty already, on Day 4 we set out for Grey Glacier, which makes up part of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, third largest mass of ice in the world next to Antarctica and Greenland. This hike is the left side of the “W” and is an out and back that we split up with a night at Refugio Grey in between.
I spent much of this hike deep in conversation with my favorite new buddy, Gaby. For me, connecting with my new friends was part of the magic of this trek, and there were 9 other beautiful and interesting people to get to know. Amazing how that happens. This is the beauty of group trips.
Grey Glacier loses 4 meters in height every year, and moves 30 cm every day. Our first view of it, aside from flying over it on our way down to Punta Arenas (get a seat on the right side of the plane!), was from the Mirador Grey.
When we arrived at the refugio, we were greeted with snacks and, of course, pisco sours! (I honestly didn’t even like pisco sours before, but this trip changed that). This break of hot soup for lunch and relaxing by the fire was just a tease, because we still had an afternoon of adventure ahead of us.
We had the option to either do a 5-hour glacier hike (yes, after an 11 KM hike just to get there), or do a kayak tour in front of the glacier. Honestly, neither appealed to me, because I have an issue with water (and ice) and extreme winter environments.
I chose kayaking, because the idea of walking on ice appeals to me even less than kayaking in ice water, and it took all the energy I had to get myself into that ice water kayak (actually it was more energy for Alex, who generously and gracefully paddled me around while I took pictures – thank you Alex!).
Somehow, I knew this would be rewarding. I was right, and that’s an understatement.
The nerd in me was so excited to be able to shout “Iceberg, straight ahead!” for the first time and actually mean it (Titanic, anyone? Or was I the only one who saw it 7 times in theaters…). I may have said it too many times that day, but my job was iceberg lookout and photographer while graceful Alex paddled away in our tandem kayak.
For safety reasons, we couldn’t paddle too close to the glacier. Even at a short distance away, we could hear the glacier expanding, cracking, breathing. It was alive, and it was intimidating.
The surprise for this trip was sneaking our kayaks into a hidden cove and climbing up to a spot with an unbelievable front row seat to Grey Glacier. Not only that, it had a natural, almost-infinity pool in front of it.
Again, we shared cups of ginger tea while we soaked in our surroundings, dumbfounded at the fact that it was all part of our “day jobs” to be in a place so… amazing. That word, by the way, is not even close to what I want to say about this place. Unbelievable, magical, other-worldly, awe-inspiring, jaw-dropping, heart-thumping, majestic, sacred? Words fail me.
Once again, back at shore, our guide (this time it was Susanne), set up a gourmet picnic, including pisco sours with glacier ice. Has a pisco sour ever tasted so good? No. Has a meat and cheese tray ever been so desirable? No.
These guides go over the top. It’s the little things, and they pay attention to every detail. I really cannot speak highly enough of Fantástico Sur.
I think every day on this trek was a perfect day. Just perfect.
Day 5: Refugio Grey to Refugio Paine Grande (11 KM) and transfer to Puerto Natales
The last 11 KM of our trek flew by, as we were all badass hikers by then.
Ironically, the same four of us who actually enjoyed running the trails arrived first back to Paine Grande, only to see that the Ultra Trail Torres del Paine was taking place that day. No kidding. I may be putting the W Circuit back on my bucket list, with a whole new challenge… Chris, Alex, Matt, you coming?
We said goodbye to Grey Glacier, and a sad, but triumphant goodbye to the W as we took a boat from Refugio Paine Grande to a bus that would take us to Puerto Natales.
On the way there, we stopped at a ranch (Pingo Salvaje) where we were treated to a beautiful trail ride on horseback, more pisco sours, and a fresh roasted lamb with wine for dinner. “What kind of wine, Alex?” “Cabernet Sauvignon” “I’m sorry, can you repeat that please?” 😉 (graceful Alex is from France).
Yeah, another perfect day. That’s how Fantástico Sur rolls.
We didn’t want to let go of our last night together, and we stayed up late despite an early departure. As soon as we hit the airport in Punta Arenas, the reunions began with teams of other ATWS delegates who were on other trips in the area, and the party did not stop for the entire following week, as we all traveled to Puerto Varas together for the Summit.
But before I let my mind wander to the Summit, which was amazing in itself, I want to reflect on one of the single best weeks of my life.
I showed up in a desperate state. I don’t need to explain why, but I knew what I needed was companionship, physical activity, mental clarity, and my favorite place of spiritual connection – The Great Outdoors.
I was filled in Patagonia.
I cannot be more grateful that this opportunity came exactly when it did. So here’s to an over-the-top experience, suspended perfectly in time, in my heart and in my life.
Want to hike the W Circuit yourself?
Great! Want to hike it with me? I took my first group back with me in November of 2016, then again in 2018, and I am planning more group trips there for the future. This is my FAVORITE itinerary of them ALL.
Check out upcoming group trips here and subscribe to stay informed!
If you’re looking to do it yourself, here are some tips:
How to get there:
Fly to Punta Arenas, Chile, where you can get a bus to Puerto Natales. Sky Airline is the domestic, budget airline in Chile. Book a hotel or hostel in Puerto Natales, which is an adorable little town worth exploring in its own right. You can get a bus from there to the refugios at the start (or end) of the W. Check out Buses Fernandez.
How to book:
You can trek the W Circuit in two ways (besides forwards and backwards):
- Self-guided (the trails are clearly marked, many opt to do the trek without guides)
- Guided (the whole shebang, like what I did)
You can find rates for the current season on Fantástico Sur’s website, and you can book refugios and camping online as well.
**UPDATE 2018: Booking is complicated because the park is managed by three different companies: Fantástico Sur, Vértice, and CONAF. You must book refugios and camping with both Fantástico Sur AND Vértice to do the whole W. Both companies seem to have constant website issues, so if it’s a pain in the neck, you’re probably doing it right. #facepalm
Please note that going forward, the park will be restricting capacity and reservations will be necessary.
Guided: If you want to book a guided trip (takes ALL the headache out of it) for you or a group, email me jackie[at]travelingjackie[dot]com, I will hook you up!
Packing list:
**UPDATE 2016: Click here for a comprehensive and updated packing list for Torres del Paine
On the actual trek, you will carry all your gear with you, so travel light. You can leave the rest of your luggage at your hotel or hostel in Puerto Natales. I am traveling with everything I’ll need for a year on the road, so I downsized into my 30L pack only the necessities for these 5 days and left the rest behind.
- Sturdy hiking shoes: boots or, if you’re a rugged trail runner like me, trail running shoes totally work. Wear what you already know and are comfortable with, because you’ll be in them for days. Tip: Gaiters are your friend. Especially in shoulder seasons. Bring them.
- Flip flops
- 2-3 pairs of socks that won’t slide down into your shoes and cause blisters (yes, you can re-wear them, no one cares)
- 1 pair of pants: I had running tights with me, everyone else had traditional hiking pants. I would say style doesn’t matter. Some recommend waterproof, which might be helpful in snowstorms (it didn’t make a noticeable difference for me), but as long as they’re made of quick-drying material, they should be good.
- Base layer bottoms: I brought cotton leggings and also used them to sleep in
- Base layer long-sleeve top: wore this everyday in October (spring) – I did NOT need this for round two in March (summer)
- Mid-layer long sleeve
- Quick-drying t-shirt: bring a couple of these if you’re going in summer
- Packable down vest
- Zip hoodie that can be taken on and off easily
- Light jacket for a layer of warmth
- Rain jacket (like, really rain proof)
- Waterproof gloves: (this is a must) I had the small cotton black ones and those simply didn’t cut it in the snow storm
- Buff: a brilliant layer to wear over the ears or around the neck for extra warmth
- Hat(s): beanie (winter hat) and possibly baseball cap/front brim of sorts
- Sunglasses
- Sunscreen
- Camera/GoPro/Batteries
- Portable USB phone charger: I used this everyday, especially when I didn’t have access to electricity and needed to recharge my phone, which I use for everything.
- Water bottle
- Travel towel
- Toiletries: only the essentials for what you need for a few days
- Ear plugs, eye mask, sleeping pills: whatever you need to sleep in shared accommodations
- Clothes to sleep in: ideally something that will stay clean and dry
- Passport: you’ll need this to check in at all accommodations
- Cash (no ATMs in the park) and credit card (the refugios accept credit cards)
Other things to note:
- Trekking Poles: My personal take is that you don’t need them if you, like me, are an experienced hiker or trail runner used to rugged terrain. My theory behind this is that I am more comfortable trusting my own balance and footing like I’ve always done on the trails than putting trust into poles that I feel clumsy with. If you are not an experienced hiker, or if you are experienced with trekking poles, then yes, I would recommend them. Make sure they are lightweight trekking poles, packable, and sturdy.
- Food: With our full tour, all of our meals, including box lunches, were taken care of. You can opt for full board at the refugios as well, and this makes it very easy so you don’t have to worry about food. I eat a lot, and it was enough. If you are allergic to peanuts, bring your own trail mix. If you have other dietary restrictions, I highly recommend packing your own snacks.
- Electricity: There will be nights when you can’t plug in, or are limited to plug in time by a generator, or that your room doesn’t have plugs at all. Keep this in mind (get a portable charger for your phone, bring backup batteries for your cameras).
- Trail Safety: Rescues are extremely difficult in Patagonia. Take your time, with steady steps, and take care of each other out there.
- WiFi/Cell Service: WiFi is available for a fee (expensive) at some of the refugios. Cell service ended at Puerto Natales, be ready to be off the grid during your trek.
41 comments
Liz Carey
December 3, 2015 at 14:21
Hi Jackie,
Thanks for the awesome post- Would you mind answering any of the following questions?
-On the trek, did you notice any wood/kindling that could be used to start and fuel a fire? We’d prefer not to bring gas canisters to fuel our stove…
-Would you recommend getting trekking poles for the hike?
-If we stay in tents, do you know if they allow campers to use refugio facilities?
-Did you travel anywhere else in South America? We have a couple days in Buenos Aires, in addition, we were going to stop in El Chalten and visit El Calafate for the laguna de los tres trek. And possibly the perito moreno glaicier (depending on how awesome glacier grey is)
Thanks again!
Jackie Laulainen
December 8, 2015 at 06:30
Hi Liz! Glad you enjoyed the post, and these are good questions.
1. No. Fires are a HUGE hazard in Torres del Paine, and I’m going to direct you to this post on the Fantástico Sur blog to address this very important question: http://www.fantasticosur.com/en/blog/useful-information/938/como-evitar-incendios-en-torres-del-paine/
2. (I’ve edited the additional notes above to address this and recommend poles) Trekking poles are not necessary IF you are an experienced hiker who does NOT normally use poles. I say this because as an experienced trail runner and hiker used to rugged terrain, I’ve never used poles and am more confident in my own balance and footing than I would be clumsily putting weight onto poles. However, I’d say at least half the people on the W use them, especially Europeans because they are used to trekking with them. My bottom line here is don’t forget to trust yourself, because keeping your footing is very important. If you’re not an experienced hiker, poles might be a good move. I’ve edited the notes above to share the poles that Alex used, which everyone loved because they’re lightweight, packable, and sturdy.
3. Here is another reference for you regarding camping, you will see on this page that “Camping rates per person include access to hot water showers and camping toilets” and you can see the rates here: http://www.fantasticosur.com/en/rates/
Also, there are park-run campsites, but I have seen those “facilities” and I would avoid them if I were you! 😉
4. On this trip, I was only in Chilean Patagonia, as well as other parts of Chile (Puerto Varas and Chiloé). I did not make it to Argentina at all, so I can’t help with this one.
Hope that helps!!
Marcela213
February 23, 2016 at 17:14
Hi Jackie,
I’m new to backpacking and I can’t wait for my 2 upcoming trips (Grand Canyon/Zion in May and classic Inca Trail in September). After seeing these amazing photos, I’m fairly certain that Torres del Paine will be my main hiking trip for 2017! Keep up the great work. I love following your adventures here and on Instagram. =)
Jackie Laulainen
February 25, 2016 at 15:02
Hi Marcela, this is amazing! You certainly won’t regret that decision. Let me know if you have any questions when the time comes!
Angela
March 24, 2016 at 21:48
This! This is amazing. Thank you for sharing.
Which package did you book with the tour company? There are so many!
Thank you, Angela
Jackie Laulainen
April 8, 2016 at 16:58
Hi Angela! You are welcome, so glad you are finding it helpful. We went with Fantástico Sur. For next year the park is putting restrictions on capacity, which means that less people will be allowed in, and reservations will be necessary. I am running my own trip there this fall, check out http://Patagonia2016.com for more information!
Kelly Climer
May 3, 2016 at 11:56
Thanks for this post! It has inspired me and my husband to take our next trip here! We have never been on a hiking trip before. We are planning on a 10-11 day trip right after Christmas. We will loose a few days to traveling, but I was wondering if you have any recommendations on how to spend the 3 extra days we will have. We are flying in and out of Punta Arenas.
Jackie Laulainen
May 22, 2016 at 08:22
Hi Kelly! That’s wonderful! Do you already have your tickets? I’m actually taking a group there in November, a 10-day that includes the W as well as 4 more days on the Argentina side 🙂 Check it out, would love to have you, and even if you can’t join, there are ideas there for what to do afterwards! 😉 http://patagonia2016.com
Mira
May 25, 2016 at 00:49
Hi Jackie,
Great post!
I was just wondering what month you went? I know you mentioned that you went in the summer, but does that mean July/August or does that mean summer in Patagonia (like January)?
I am looking to go at the beginning of July and just trying to find out more information about the amount of snow there will be/accessibility, etc.
Thank you for your time
Jackie Laulainen
June 21, 2016 at 15:39
Hi Mira! You can expect full snow in July, as it is mid-winter in Patagonia. I went once during their spring (October) and once during their summer (March). Weather is always a gamble no matter the season, but July will most certainly mean cold and snowy! Many services also shut down in the winter, I’m curious how it goes for you! Have fun!
Pakhi Park
May 26, 2016 at 00:00
Hi Jackie,
Do you remember the name of the company with whom you did the horse riding on your way back? Was it included in the package or did you book it separately? Where was it exactly? Thank you!
Jackie Laulainen
June 21, 2016 at 15:40
Hi Pakhi! The ranch was called Pingo Salvaje, it’s just north of Puerto Natales, so a couple of hours drive from the park back towards town. It’s booked separately unless you go through one tour provider to book your entire custom trip.
Carrie
July 25, 2016 at 18:09
Hey Jackie,
This has been one of the most helpful posts as I gear up to trek the W in September. I’m flying solo, so I’m wondering how you hooked up with your trek-crew before your journey? Old friends or intentional team-up for the trek?
Thank you!
Jackie Nourse
July 27, 2016 at 11:58
Hi Carrie!
So glad this has been helpful for you. When I went the first time it was a sponsored trip so it was an organized group of travel industry professionals. The second time I went, four of my friends from Montana traveled down to trek it with me, and I’m going again in November with a group we are putting together! (http://patagonia2016.com)
That all being said, the time we went in March we met a LOT of people on the trail that we would hike with, spend meals with, and we still keep in touch today. In October, much less so because it was barely open for the season. In September I doubt you will see many others along the trail because of the season, it’s barely end of winter, beginning of spring at that time, which can be wonderful timing for avoiding crowds, but may also mean you won’t find as many trekking mates. That’s okay though, I think even if you’re alone you’ll have an incredible time, that place is magic…
Jesse Hsiao
August 31, 2016 at 23:39
Hi Jackie,
How do you get from Santiago to the park? Also two of my friends and I are planning a 3 nights/4 days trek due to time. Basically, it follows your Day 1 to Day 4 itinerary. From Refugio Paine Grande, is it possible to transfer out of the park? Tips, advice, modifications are appreciated!
Thank you!
Jackie Nourse
September 1, 2016 at 11:42
Fly from Santiago to Punta Arenas (via Puerto Montt), and take a bus from there either to Puerto Natales for a day or two, or you can continue on and go straight to the park. And yes, you leave the park via catamaran transfer from Paine Grande and then bus back to Puerto Natales. You can book everything in advance with Fantastico Sur if you want to.
Christina Nguyen
October 8, 2016 at 00:31
I am traveling around the world and I did not pack my hiking boots and other camping gear with me due to limited space in my backpack and the little amount times I would be using them. My following questions are regarding this issue:
1) Do you think running shoes will suffice for this trek?
2) Are there places to rent camping gear?
3) Do most hostels have a storage place to leave your other belongs during the trek? And how secure do you think they are? I have my laptop with me and do not plan to bring it on my trek.
Thanks!
Jackie Nourse
October 11, 2016 at 21:42
1) I have done this trek twice in running shoes, so YES.
2) I believe so, but I would not expect it to be cheap. Camping gear is expensive in Patagonia.
3) Before you book a hotel or hostel, just ask if they will store your extra luggage while you trek (I can’t answer for every place). I left my laptop with all of my extra luggage twice and it was safe both times, in different hotels. That being said, it’s a risk just as anything else would be, and no one can really answer this question.
Hope that helps!
Alissa
December 11, 2016 at 13:52
Hi Jackie, I’m heading to Torres del Paine in March 2017. Do you know if many people sign up for the unguided W tours via Fantastico Sur? I’m traveling solo and would really like to link up with other hikers but am unsure if I want to spend the big bucks to do the guided trip.
Jackie Nourse
December 11, 2016 at 13:54
Hi Alissa! Yes, most people go unguided, and I guarantee you will meet lots of awesome people on the trail. Don’t worry about going alone, you won’t ever really be alone!
Dave
January 4, 2017 at 17:41
Alissa,
My wife and I are going the first week of April…which appears to be the last week everything is open. We’re having a really hard time getting in contant with Fantastico Sur. Are you booking a package or just individual nights? We want to do self-guided as well.
Andrew Moll
January 25, 2017 at 19:53
Also looking to do this trip Solo in March… Would you recommend doing this without knowing much Spanish?
Jackie Nourse
January 26, 2017 at 12:11
Of course! Don’t ever let a language barrier prevent you from going somewhere. This is one of the most beautiful places in the world, just get there!
Diane
December 16, 2016 at 01:52
Loved reading your descriptions, couldn’t stop grinning and saying “yes, exactly!” I did the W this past February and hope to return. Chile stole my heart. You captured the magic so accurately…thank you!
Jackie Nourse
December 16, 2016 at 16:44
YES! It’s so hard to explain, isn’t it? It’s also hard to stay away from that amazing place, I was just there again last month and I’m already thinking of my next trip!
Emil
January 12, 2017 at 08:42
Hey Jackie, I see you had a kayaking component on the W but the outfit you recommend or were with doesn’t seem to have that on their list of activities (5 day W), at least I couldn’t see it. Was that a separate activity and where can you do it?
Jackie Nourse
January 14, 2017 at 14:48
Fantástico Sur can help you set up your lodging, but the kayaking is through Big Foot Patagonia, and they operate out of a tiny office on the shore of Lago Grey down by Refugio Grey and the glacier. http://bigfootpatagonia.com/kayak.html
Shrey Patel
July 21, 2017 at 23:24
Hello Jackie, great post. Ran in via google as one of the top hits. I have some questions, if you can answer them it would be very helpful for us to take a decision. What month did you go? We are thinking October and I am not sure how cold it would be. How exactly are the accommodations via Fantastico Sur? Are all nights in Refugios? How are the bathrooms?
I am sorry but I am finding their website a little unclear on some basic details like rates, guided tours, refugio info, etc. I would really appreciate it, thank!
Jackie Nourse
July 24, 2017 at 19:33
Went in March, October, and November. Be prepared for cold, wind and wet in October as it’s early spring. Bring layers because you’ll warm up as well. Accommodations vary by choice. Refugios are bunk style dorms. The beds are clean and comfortable. The bathrooms early season are in the best shape, much better than late season. For this, October is brilliant. I recommend the cabins at Los Cuernos 110% over the refugio, bedding is provided in refugios. Towels are for rent. You don’t need a guide, it’s well marked and you will meet others on the trail. I recommend paying for full board and accommodations so it’s taken care of. You eat with everyone cafeteria style, pick up your prepared bag lunch every day, and dinner cafeteria style every night. It’s great! Have fun!
Jennifer
September 1, 2017 at 17:10
Hi Jackie!
My fiance and I are traveling to Patagonia this November (2017) for our honeymoon! We plan to do the W trek as part of our trip. We are doing it self guided and having some trouble figuring out the campsites. We want to go West to East and are planning on the following stays: CAMPING CENTRAL SITIO SUELO (fantasticosur); CAMPING CUERNOS PLATAFORMA (fantasticosur); Camping Gray (Vertice); and then Camping Paine Grande (Vertice). Does that seem like the order and distance to you? We have read several guidebooks but just don’t want to make a mistake in booking! and have found the sites somewhat confusing. Thanks for any and all insight you have! We can’t wait!
Jackie Nourse
September 9, 2017 at 19:49
West to east would start with either Paine Grande or Grey, depending on whether you are hiking straight to Grey on the first day or not. Basically you are doing it backwards from what I did it if you’re going west to east. So Grey and Paine Grande are west, Cuernos is in the middle, and Camping Central is at the end, the east. You only need one night at each. Hope that helps, have fun!
Sarah Young
September 22, 2017 at 07:14
Hi Jackie! Thanks for sharing all the great information. I am travelling to Patagonia, Chile in this Nov – Dec 2017 with my family and planning to hike the W Circuit of Torres del Paine National Park. After saw your post and images I am very excited to visit that places. I have already booked my trip with a travel company ChileTour Patagonia. I think they will guide us perfectly. This is my 1st time adventures trip and I want to enjoy a lot in that Torres del Paine National Park.
Jackie Nourse
September 22, 2017 at 12:42
Amazing!! I hope you enjoy it as much as I have, it’s an incredible place! Glad you found this post helpful. Happy travels!!
Bruce Maslia
November 21, 2017 at 10:15
Great article…Just returned from there but only did the day hike to the base of the towers. Wish we had more time.
Jackie Nourse
November 22, 2017 at 07:44
Thank you! Guess you’ll just have to return someday to see the rest! Nothing wrong with that 😉
mary
November 21, 2017 at 19:10
Aloha from Hilo, Hawaii. I did the W east to west in 2005 and have always wanted to return. SO, I’m planning to go again in Jan/Feb 2019. Looks likes a few things have changed, not the incredible beauty BUT the number of visitors in the park! At times my first trip seems like a blur…….so a few questions for you. Would you recommend a night at refugio chileno so we can do a sunrise of the Torres? I’m fine with a 5night/6 day trek. I’m a enthusiastic photographer and want time to shoot and not feel rushed.
Itineray I’m considering is west to east. Catamaran, refugio gray, paine grande, refugio los cuernos/maybe cabins, refugio chileno, refugio torre central…
Look forward to your comments.
aloha, Mary
Jackie Nourse
November 22, 2017 at 07:51
Hi Mary! You are so right, the beauty has not changed, and the good news about the amount of people is that the hikers you will meet are pretty cool 🙂 Your itinerary idea sounds great, and I definitely advise that you book ahead (probably around May is when they will open booking for next season), since you’ll be going in high season. Chileno is the smallest and fills up fast. I haven’t stayed there myself, but I can see it being a very strategic move for sunrise photos. If you can’t get in there, don’t sweat it because you can still do the sunrise hike from Central, just earlier. Also if you haven’t stayed at the cabins at Cuernos before, do it, they are magical. Hope this is helpful! Happy planning 🙂
caitlan Kane
December 14, 2017 at 14:08
Hi Jackie, Thanks for the great article and information. My husband and I are going in March and would like to do the W. I was thinking of doing the same tour you did, which one was it through FS?
also is there another area of Chile you would recommend? We are flying in and out of Santiago?
Thanks,
Caitlan
Jackie Nourse
December 28, 2017 at 07:35
Hi Caitlan! I did the W trek in Torres del Paine. I reserved everything through Fantastico Sur’s sales office directly, or you can book online but you have to book some of your lodging through Fantastico Sur and some (Paine Grande and Grey) through Vertice, because they each own part of the park. I also recommend going into Argentina and visiting Perito Moreno and El Chaltén (Fitz Roy), otherwise in Chile, the Carretera Austral is amazing but you need your own car. Puerto Varas and Chiloe is a great option if you don’t have your own car, you can get around and do tours there. Have fun!! It should be beautiful in March.
Gregory
January 6, 2022 at 05:55
Hi! We’re planning on ending the trip at Refugio Grey and then head to El Calafate. What’s the best way to travel from the Grey side of the W to El Calafate?
Thanks!
Greg
Jackie Nourse
January 8, 2022 at 18:16
From Glacier Grey the only way out is by boat or hiking – so you either hike back to Refugio Paine Grande and get the catamaran out, and then you take a bus to Puerto Natales, or you take a boat tour of Lago Grey (which is amazing) and you end near Hotel Grey, and from there you can get a bus to Puerto Natales. From either place, you have to get a bus back to Puerto Natales, and then you get a bus to El Calafate from there. There is no direct way, it’s not easy and it takes a lot of time, but it’s worth it!